The bomber jacket's journey from military necessity to fashion staple is one of the most fascinating stories in clothing history. What began as practical gear for World War I aviators has evolved over more than a century into an iconic garment worn by everyone from Hollywood celebrities to everyday fashion enthusiasts. Understanding this rich history not only deepens appreciation for your bomber jacket but also helps explain why certain design elements—like the distinctive ribbed cuffs and that famous orange lining—exist in the first place.
The Birth of Flight Jackets: 1910s-1920s
The story of the bomber jacket begins with the earliest military aviators. In the open cockpits of World War I aircraft, pilots faced extreme conditions: temperatures dropped dramatically at altitude, winds battered exposed skin, and there was no heating system to speak of. Military strategists quickly recognised that aircrew needed specialised clothing to function effectively.
The First Flight Jackets
Early flight jackets were heavy leather garments lined with fur or shearling. These early designs borrowed heavily from motorcycle jackets and winter coats of the era. They featured high collars that could be turned up against the wind, snug cuffs to prevent air from rushing up the sleeves, and generous insulation to combat the bitter cold at altitude.
In 1917, the United States Army established the Aviation Clothing Board to standardise flight gear. This marked the beginning of systematic development of purpose-built aviation clothing, laying the groundwork for the iconic designs that would follow.
Early aircraft had no enclosed cockpits. Pilots sat exposed to the elements at altitudes where temperatures could drop to -50°C. Without proper protection, pilots could suffer frostbite within minutes, making effective flight jackets literally a matter of survival.
The Golden Age: 1930s-1940s
The interwar period and World War II represent the golden age of flight jacket development. During this era, the most iconic designs were created, many of which directly influence the bomber jackets we wear today.
The A-2 Jacket (1931)
In 1931, the United States Army Air Corps introduced the A-2 flight jacket, and it remains one of the most celebrated jacket designs ever created. Made from horsehide or goatskin leather, the A-2 featured a distinctive design: shirt-style collar, snap-down collar points, knitted wool cuffs and waistband, and a front zipper closure.
The A-2 was issued to American pilots throughout World War II and became closely associated with the heroic aviators of that era. Pilots personalised their jackets with squadron patches and nose art, creating unique pieces that told stories of their service. Today, vintage A-2 jackets are highly sought after by collectors, and the design continues to be reproduced by manufacturers worldwide.
The B-15 and Birth of Nylon (1944)
By the mid-1940s, leather supply couldn't keep pace with wartime demand. The military turned to newly developed nylon fabric, creating the B-15 jacket in 1944. This jacket introduced features that would define the modern bomber: a nylon shell, synthetic pile lining, and a simplified construction that was faster to manufacture.
The B-15 represented a significant technological leap. Nylon was lighter than leather, dried faster when wet, and could be produced more quickly and cheaply. The B-15 also introduced the mouton (sheepskin) collar that would become a defining feature of flight jackets for decades.
The MA-1 Revolution: 1950s
The jet age brought new challenges for flight jacket design. Jets flew higher and faster than propeller aircraft, but crucially, they had enclosed, heated cockpits. The heavy insulation of earlier jackets became unnecessary and even problematic in the confined spaces of jet cockpits.
A New Design Philosophy
In 1950, the United States Air Force introduced the MA-1 flight jacket, designed specifically for jet aircraft crew. The MA-1 eliminated the fur collar (which could interfere with parachute harnesses and oxygen masks), streamlined the silhouette for movement in tight cockpits, and reduced weight while maintaining warmth.
The MA-1's famous bright orange lining wasn't a fashion choice—it was a survival feature. The jacket was designed to be reversible, with the orange side worn outward if a pilot needed to be spotted by search and rescue teams. This practical feature has become one of the most recognisable elements of authentic MA-1 jackets.
Design Features That Endure
The MA-1 established the template for modern bomber jackets:
- Nylon outer shell with polyester fill
- Knitted wool or synthetic rib-knit cuffs and waistband
- Front zipper with storm flap
- Slash pockets at the waist
- Utility pocket on the left sleeve
- Cropped, waist-length cut
- Reversible construction with orange lining
From Military to Mainstream: 1960s-1980s
The transition of the bomber jacket from military equipment to civilian fashion is a story of cultural adoption and subversion.
Counterculture Adoption
In the 1960s and 1970s, military surplus stores made authentic flight jackets available to the public. Various subcultures adopted the bomber: British mods paired them with tailored suits, American punks used them as canvases for DIY customisation, and skinheads (in their original, non-racist form as a working-class youth movement) made the MA-1 part of their uniform.
The jacket's military associations gave it a rebellious edge while its practical qualities—durability, warmth, and functionality—made it genuinely useful. This combination of attitude and utility proved irresistible to youth movements across the Western world.
Hollywood Influence
Cinema played a crucial role in cementing the bomber jacket's iconic status. Films featuring fighter pilots and military heroes showcased the jacket to mass audiences. Meanwhile, style-conscious actors began wearing bombers in civilian contexts, demonstrating their versatility beyond military settings.
High Fashion Embrace: 1990s-2000s
By the 1990s, the bomber jacket had completed its journey from functional military gear to legitimate fashion item. High-end designers began creating their own interpretations, using luxury materials and innovative details while respecting the classic silhouette.
Designer Interpretations
Fashion houses like Prada, Saint Laurent, and Burberry produced bomber jackets that sold for thousands of dollars. These designs often featured premium materials—Italian leather, silk linings, designer hardware—while maintaining the recognisable bomber shape. The jacket had officially crossed from streetwear to high fashion.
The bomber jacket's fashion journey exemplifies how military and workwear garments become style staples. Designed for function, adopted by subcultures, embraced by mainstream fashion, and finally elevated by luxury designers—this path has been followed by jeans, work boots, and many other everyday classics.
The Modern Era: 2010s-Present
Today, the bomber jacket exists across every price point and style category. You can find faithful MA-1 reproductions from military contractors, fast-fashion interpretations at high-street retailers, and designer versions in luxury boutiques.
Contemporary Variations
Modern designers have created countless variations on the classic theme:
- Oversized bombers: Relaxed fits popular in streetwear
- Cropped styles: Shorter cuts, particularly popular in women's fashion
- Technical fabrics: Performance materials borrowed from athletic wear
- Sustainable options: Recycled materials and ethical production
- Hybrid designs: Combining bomber elements with other jacket styles
The Bomber's Enduring Appeal
Over a century after the first flight jackets were developed, the bomber remains relevant for the same reasons it succeeded initially: it works. The design is comfortable, functional, and flattering. The silhouette bridges casual and smart-casual contexts. And the jacket's rich history gives it a depth of character that purely fashion-driven designs can't replicate.
When you wear a bomber jacket today, you're participating in a tradition that spans more than a hundred years and encompasses military history, youth culture, fashion evolution, and practical design excellence. Few garments can claim such a storied past or such a promising future. Understanding this history enriches the experience of owning and wearing a bomber—connecting you to generations of aviators, rebels, and style icons who came before.